Tempting kebabs, scented biryani, and whipped, ethereal desserts.
The metropolis in India's north of Lucknow has long been a haven for gastronomes, with locals and visitors alike celebrating its exquisite cuisine.
Worldwide Recognition
In a recent announcement, The United Nations Educational, Scientific and Cultural Organization recognised it as a City of Gastronomy within its Creative Cities Network – including it in a select roster of world cities and sparking hopes that it will spotlight Lucknow's sublime food. With this designation, it joins a global network of over 400 cities across over 100 countries committed to promoting "creativity as a driver of sustainable urban development".
The accolade "is a testament to its deep-rooted culinary traditions and dynamic culinary scene," according to a spokesperson from Unesco's Regional Office for South Asia.
Lucknow is just the second Indian city – following Hyderabad, which was selected in 2019 – to find a place in this prestigious list of seventy urban centers worldwide.
A City Defined by Food
The recognition for this venerable city is hardly a shock to its locals or passionate food lovers. Many agree with the opinion that it is "an honor long overdue".
With the UNESCO accolade, this beloved, bustling, and vibrant city – the capital of India's biggest state – is at last in the limelight for what has consistently defined its essence: an immense devotion for food.
"'What will be cooked, how should it be prepared' is a constant conversation from morning until going to bed in many homes," states a local cultural expert. "And you are truly evaluated by the excellence of food that emerges from your kitchen."
A Heritage of Nawabi Cuisine
The Nawabi City – as it's often referred to after its historic wealthy Muslim rulers – is famed for its succulent kebabs and a unique take on biryani that were conceived, refined, and taken to sublime levels in their royal kitchens.
These imperial kitchens were centers of culinary innovations, fusing Persian and local Indian styles to create what became known as the culinary tradition of Awadh.
It was in this era that Lucknow's iconic kebabs were fashioned. The story goes that the mutton galouti was devised to cater to an ageing nawab who had lost his teeth. His chefs minced the meat with raw papaya, saffron, and a blend of spices and made it so fine that it needed no chewing.
But arguably the greatest contribution of the cooks of Awadh was the slow-cook Dum pukht technique, where food is cooked on a low, leisurely heat, with the pot's lid tightly sealed with dough.
Beyond Kebabs and Biryani
Apart from the obvious kebabs and biryani, the cooks also built up a collection of dishes that included kormas (rich curries), sheermal (saffron-infused flatbread), and shahi tukda (a decadent bread pudding).
However, Lucknow is far more than kebabs and biryani – the region is additionally a haven for vegetarians.
The local traditionally vegetarian community's cuisine not only showcases seasonal produce but also provides the city its meticulously prepared Indian desserts, sweets, and unique street food, like chaat – tangy fried snacks.
Time-Tested Food Joints
Virtually on many street corners, there are small establishments and stalls – little-known gems that are immensely favored by the locals.
In the city center of Hazratganj, throngs of people start gathering from early morning at a famous tea stall to get a piping hot cup of milky masala chai, served in clay glasses, along with incredibly soft buns slathered with freshly churned white butter.
To start the day, one can visit a simple joint operating in the historic quarter of Aminabad. Nearly 150 years after it was set up, the place is still in great demand for its hot kachoris (fried bread stuffed with lentils) and jalebis (crispy, syrup-soaked sweets).
Preserving Tradition for the Future
The city also boasts special seasonal delights, such as makkhan malai, a cloud-like dessert savored in the winter. The method of making it is scientific and demanding. The cook hand-churns the milk and then leaves it out at night, allowing the nighttime moisture to give it its unique light consistency.
On crisp mornings, street vendors line up in old city areas like Aminabad and Chowk. A number of though express concern that their children do not want to learn the skill.
A celebrity chef from Lucknow has noted that the city's rich food legacy positions it right on top of the Indian street food experience. The real value from the UNESCO recognition, it is believed, will be realized only if Lucknow can now build recognition about its lesser-known eateries.
Every dish in Lucknow has a narrative – shaped by generational food businesses, from humble street carts to bustling restaurants, and secret family recipes.
The international acclaim, it is believed, will encourage more people around the world to learn these stories and travel to the city to savour the food wonders of Lucknow.
